28 Jan 07- life Dhaka

Baldha Garden Dhaka

Cybele part of Baldah garden

Sankhanidhi pond

Students of Botany, examining plants

Visitors

Udoypadda plant in the middle

Green house

Sundial
Baldha Garden: The philanthropic naturalist landlord of the Baldah estate, Narendra Narayan Roy Chaudhury, established a miniature botanical garden in Narinda, near Christian Cemetery, having a rich and rare collection of plants from 50 countries in 1909. It took more than three decades to give a full shape to this garden. The garden housed about 15,000 plants covering more than 600 species of around 335 genera belonging to 87 families. Among those, the famous Baobab plant (Adansonia digitata) was collected from Africa and adapted in this garden. There are the famous camellias that inspired poet Rabindranath Tagore to compose his famous poem 'Camelia' during his visit to this garden in late 1920s. The garden is divided into two parts, Psyche and Cybele.

In the Psyche part, there are some nicely arranged lily pools with our national flower and some other interesting hydrophytic plants. There is a house only for Aloe plants. The unique plants, climbing Ivy (Ficus ripens var. heterophylla) and Papyrus (Cyperus papyrus), the Egyptian paper plant was collected and planted here. The lotus tank housed the famous Amajan lotus (Victoria regia) and blue nympheas. The famous pond, Sankhanidhi and the Sundial are located in the Cybele part of the garden.

After the death of the Roy Chaudhury on 13th August 1943, problems arose on the maintenance of this garden. The condition since then began to deteriorate. In 1962, the responsibility of maintenance and improvement of the garden was given to the Forest Department. In the name of collecting funds for maintenance of the garden, the Cybele part has been handed over to a private agency and it has worsened the situation. This portion has been opened to common visitors making it a pleasure garden, and taking this opportunity, some unsocial elements allegedly are doing nuisance there. It remains open from 9-12 am and 3-5 pm. Ticket price for individual is Tk.5/- only.

Dhaka river bank scene viewed from Keraniganj

Bangladesh China Friendship Bridge - viewed from Keraniganj

Hasanabad

Naval station

Boat maintenance made easy

River scene- near Jinjira, Keraniganj

Sir Salimullah Medical College (Mitford hospital) viewed from Buriganga 2nd bridge

Ahsan Manzil pink dome in the background

Rocket service stationed at Badamtali jetty

River bank view - west of Sir Salimullah Medical College

Towering Minaret of historical Chawkbazar Shahi Masjid in the background

Christian Cemetery at Narinda, Dhaka

Main gate of cemetery, Narinda

Old picture of Narinda Cemetery 1875 (unknown photographer)

Original gate now stands deep inside

tomb stone of an unknown person


old graves site

tomb structure resembling Islamic style


Old dilapidated tomb structure



Tomb structure similar to Hindu style

God's Acre Cemetery, Wari (west of Narinda cemetery)

Tomb stones in Orthodox Armenian church, Armanitola. The church has about 350 graves.

Christian Cemetery, Narinda: The 16th century cemetery is currently under the jurisdiction of St. Mary's Cathedral, with 22 churches in the city having representatives as its board members. The cemetery maintained by the committee of churches is situated at Narinda, Dhaka east of Baldha Garden.

Away from the old city, initially it was small, as is evident from the main gate of the old cemetery that stands deep inside. The gate design resembles Moorish architecture. More than 50% of the grave area looks vacant. Graves of various shapes and sizes are lying scattered mostly of indigo farmers, their family members and British soldiers. Some graves have imposing monuments and towers as seen in Muslim and Hindu shrines. Most tombstones and epitaphs eroded due to gathering of shrubs, weathering action and lack of maintenance. Prof Muntasir Mamun’s book refers a list that mentions some important persons, the oldest of 1725 AD belongs to one Nathaniel of ‘English Kuthi’. The cemetery has grave of Maj. Gen. Hamilton Wetch of Bengal Army 11 June 1856 and some English soldiers who died in the fight at Lalbagh Fort during Sepoy Mutiny.


God's Acre: There is another small graveyard west of Narinda Cemetery, size of a basket ball court on a lane of Tipu Sultan Road where the mortal remains of Rev William Robinson (Baptist Church Sadarghat) is buried.

for Muslim Graveyards see:

Dhaka Graveyards for Muslims

Dhaka Graveyards for Muslims

AZIMPUR GRAVEYARD:

Azimpur graveyard boundary wall on Peelkhana Road

South entrance of Azimpur graveyard

Central walkway

Tomb of a revered ( Mari Shah) at entry point on the left


Language movement martyr Safiur at right, Artist Hamidur Rahman (L) and Begum Sufia Kamal (C)

View of east side


view of Azimpur graveyard

BANANI GRAVEYARD:

Banani graveyard entry gate


Central area

East side


BANANI ARMY GRAVEYARD:

Entry gate




Old graves of some Pakistani soldiers

MIRPUR GRAVEYARD:

Area earmarked for 'Shaheed' freedom fighters

Mirpur general area

Beggars sit at the intersection of graveyard

Girls making best use of intellectuals' arena

Guide boys show skill on tops (spinning toys)

There is no space left for eternal rest for the majority of the people living in Dhaka city in the five graveyards for Muslim burial. The space crisis is due to heavy influx of city's population and corresponding increase in the number of deaths. In average, daily more than 100 bodies are buried.

Another reason is the purchase of permanent burial space for the dead (also advance reservation) by the rich whose numbers have greatly swollen during last 2 decades. The area thus left for ‘common burial’ is now so shrunk that the graves have to be reused within 8-12 months against normal gap of 2-3 years. Islamic Shariah does not encourage ‘permanent space’ in the graveyard.

The number of permanent graves in Azimpur graveyard alone (old and new) established in 1850 on 32 acres now exceeded 3,900. In Banani graveyard, less than a third area is left for common burial.

The space for a permanent grave at Uttara was sold for Tk.100,000, at Banani for Tk. 60,000, at Azimpur for Tk. 35,000 and Tk. 25,000 at the Mirpur and Jurain graveyard. DCC has now stopped selling space for permanent graves.

Dhaka City Corporation maintains 5 burial grounds for Muslims in the city. Azimpur graveyard (recorded officially since 1850) is the oldest which covers 32 acres of land. Mirpur graveyard divided into several exclusive zones (Shaheed, freedom fighters, intellectuals and common) is the largest on 65 acres is the largest, Jurain on 10.1 acres, Banani on 4.5 acres and Uttara on 0.5 acres. Bangladesh Army maintains its own graveyard north of Banani Municipal graveyard.

In 1868, a list of graveyards within the municipal limits of Dhaka, both private and public, was prepared. In that list, 12 burial places at Champatalli, Begum Bazar, Becharam Dewry, Bangshal, Agha Masih lane and other places were mentioned. There were also many minor burial places within residential areas. This made the city atmosphere filthy and alarming to health. Dr. Wise, Graham and Nawab Khwaja Ahsanullah signed an agreement for closure of such burial places. The place where Azimpur graveyard is now situated, was away from city limits and was full of bushes. It was selected as the first municipal graveyard. Yet, the practice of burying bodied in houses and ‘mahalla’ continued for long. Another graveyard later was established on the eastern side in Jurain.

To cope with the growing pressure, the City Corporation has drawn schemes for more burial grounds in the city, with new sites at Aftabnagar for 25 acres, at Badda and Goran, and 25 acres at Mirpur.

Osmany Uddyan development is still a far cry..

View of Osmany Uddyan from top of DCC building before beautification / development works taken up during last year

Work seems to be stopped as squatters demarcate living spaces

Appropriate stalls established

Pond (to be developed as lake) serves squatters needs

Taking a nap


Present site of historic cannon Bibi Mariam of Subehdar Mir Jumla in the park. Originally it was in Swarighat. British rulers moved the cannon to Chawkbazar and then to Sadarghat. During Pakistan period the cannon was brought to Gulistan intersection.

An incomplete pathway...

Sign of growing street market - aluminium utensils for sale

Oven for cooking

Rag picker's dumping place of collection for weighing

Fruit stalls inside park

Coexistence...
Osmany Uddyan sits in the heart of Dhaka city. Important offices, commercial and trading centers are all located around it. It’s a divider between Dhaka old and new. On its north, is the Secretariat building, and on the west are Curzon hall and Ramna. On the east, are the commercial places of Bangabandhu Avenue, Stadium and Motijheel, and on the south are T&T office, City Corp, Railway Offices and Old Dhaka. This important and once full of trees Uddyan (park) is under threat of different activities, such as, felling of trees, digging, illegal/forcible occupation of open space by mini-buses and trucks and vendors. It was told that the Uddyan is undergoing a cosmetic change for beautification. But nothing tangible is yet to be seen except felling of trees and excavation here and there. The photos, except the top one, taken on 24 Jan 07, show the pattern of development, and is now a paradise for unsocial elements. Trespassers and intruders continue to vandalize the place with apparent impunity.

Dhaka scenes - 24 January 07

BGME bldg Karwanbazar


Bangabhaban outer walls

National Eidgah, Ramna

New Minarate for Baitul Mukarram in final stage

golf heights-airport road

an alley from bangabandhu avenue- stalls for belt

road encraochment at Shahbagh demolished

eviction from footpath

to slaughter house

happy kids caressing a street puppy on airport road

Shrine of Hazrat Shah Ali Bogdadi at Mirpur

shrine from a distance

imposing minaret of the shrine mosque

entry gate

shrine under the 'shirni' tree

sentinel to warn unauthorized intruder

pop corn packets sell at Tk.10/-

Shrine of Hazrat Shah Ali Bogdadi: The shrine of the revered figure was part of a mosque that collapsed in river erosion long ago. The shrine (Majar) is situated in Mirpur, Section 1 near Turag river, Amin Bazar beside a large water pool (beel) north of Mirpur graveyard.

Hazrat Shah Ali along with his disciples came from Baghdad to Dhaka via Delhi in 1412 to preach Islam in this region. Many versions of his miracle power and death are told. One saying goes, in 1498, he decided to meditate for 40 days (chillah) in an isolated room. In the 39th day, his disciples could hear wild screams from the room. They broke open the door and found the body of Shah Ali lying dead. Another verson states they found a flame instead of body which was buried at the shrine. Anyway, the shrine remains crowded with devotees all over the year. Once it became a too noisy due to activities of unsocials when Govt. stepped in to take over control and management of the shrine. It's now a much cleaner place. A Mosque and madrassa have been added and there is plan to make the place presentable to the visitors.

The huge tree over the shrine looks similar to Banyan (Ashattha/Bot) with smaller leaves. It is known at the shrine as ‘Firni/Shirni’ tree. It bears fruit size of 'Indian Jujube' (boroi) that turn yellow when ripe and tastes similar to grapes. During season the devotees eat it with respect.

New Market Dhaka since 1952

General view of New Market, Dhaka, from outside

Entry through south gate

Shops under mosque - once a green field

Life goes on at the book corner

AKS photographers - still going strong since 1954

Entry from north gate

Caps occupy landing space of New Super Market

New super market - central lobby

Market toilet - lot more improved than before

Loader boys pose for photo

Bonolata - kitchen market lobsters in ice

Rui fish - dipped in formalin water to keep it look fresh

Pangash and Boal - favourites of many

Local variety of candy floss - 'Hawai Mithai'

Garbage container outside market and the scavengers

South gate

New Market, north of Azimpur, Dhaka began its construction in 1952 by C&B Dept. on 35 acres of land during the period Mr. Nurul Amin, the Chief Minister of East Pakistan. Market was completed in 1954. Mr. Nurul Amin was also active in establishing the first posh hotel Shahbagh at Shahbagh area (now PG hospital). This heralded the beginning of a new area of development towards modernizing Dhaka. Rickshaw ride or walking along the narrow lanes of old Dhaka for shopping was not a happy experience for families. Old Dhaka was too conservative, noisy and crowded. Ironically, Mr. Nurul Amin’s modernization project boomeranged as people talked against it. Some believed New Market and Shahbagh hotel were made exclusively for Nurul Amin’s family. The rumor gave credence to common people, so much so that in the general election of 1954, Muslim League was routed in East Pakistan by the United Front of Sohrawardy, Haque and Bhasani. Mr. Nurul Amin lost in election miserably against a less known student leader, losing the deposit money.

New market area is triangular in shape with 3 high arched entry gates on three sides. There were spaces for 440 shops and a nice triangular lawn at the center. Shops sold variety items, benarasi saris, suiting, ornaments, leather items, books. Photo studios and restaurants were around the park inside.

In 50's and 60's, it was the most popular place for shopping as well as recreation. Young people, particularly college and university students in groups, donned in best attire, moved round and round in the evening for hours. Girls came in separate groups. For them, free-mixing with classmates (boys) outside was not permitted by the society. Clashes often occured between rival groups of boys over influence or protection of groups of girls, many of those boys later became ministers and high bureaucrats.

In 80’s, 3 more New Market blocks were constructed on the north under Dhaka City Corporation e.g. New Super Market for crockeries, Bonolata for kitchen market, Chandrima for varieties of items and D- block for groceries, each having over 1000 shops. The nice green park inside has been converted into a mosque at first floor level with 62 new shops under it.

Many new large and ultra modern malls have sprung up in Dhaka, but the importance of New Market in Dhaka cannot be underestimated.

Some large trees of Dhaka

Banyan tree of Bangla Academy, Dhaka

Karoi tree (Albeziaa procera) near Vice Chancellor's residence, Dhaka University

Rain tree near Doyel Chattar ( Shishu Academy), Dhaka

Banyan tree (Botomul), south of Ramna park

Pakur (off-shoot of Banyan group) tree, north of Ramna park

Bishwa-bot at Jhenaidah

Banyan Tree of Bangla Academy is old and a prominent one, may be more than a hundred years old. Its base has a masonry platform. During 'Boi-Mela', this becomes a favorite gathering spot for poets and writers.

The largest Banyan tree is situated in Kaliganj upazila of Jhenidah district. It used to be known as 'Mallikpur (Suitala) banyan tree', but people have now started calling it Bishwabot because of its gigantic size. The original tree generated 45 smaller trees which cover an area of 2.33 hectares. The original tree is now dead. Of its aerial roots, 345 have penetrated the ground and 38 are still hanging. It is said that the tree grew 200-250 years ago on the wall of a local potter's well. It may be mentioned here that the banyan tree of the Calcutta botanical garden covers an area of 2.22 hectares. (ref: banglapedia)

Sil karoi (Albezia Procera) makes good timber for domestic articles and is popular. Rain tree grows quickly, but its timber is far less in value than Sil Karoi/Rendi Karoi.

January scenes: Dhaka

All quiet on the election commission front

Karwan bazar bustee in blaze (12th january 07) --- 'Aktel' bill board on coffin box

Predators of Lauachara Reserve Forest turn into protectors

Poush Sankranti kite flying in old dhaka

'Pitha Utsab' (rice cake festival)

Hot mughlai paratha in Maghbazar crossing




Flower stalls in Shahbagh

Traders carrying fish in large cauldrons

Plucked chicken on sale

Group begging in the city

"Made in Bangladesh" running in Balaka cinema

17 january 2007

Unlicensed rickshaws having a ride

Curious old inhabitants in Old Dhaka

Tea stalls near Art College, Shahbagh

Ice cream vendors in Shahbagh

Chicken pattis

Murir moa

Maghbazar crossing

Ramna Park - Dhaka

man in deep sleep on the bench beside park

East gate of park- 'Arunodoy'

Entry through 'star gate' - the first guards room and office built for park in the 50's

Old godown at left for Zoo animals in the 50's

Childrens' park - south west of Kakrail mosque

walkway of the park

Park scene - cool place

for joggers

picnic spot

Central college girls in park pose for camera

lonely path- north south

place to rest

70' tall water tower built in 1965

park canal carries water east to segunbagicha storm sewer

cozy corner

lake water pumped out for improvement

platform built in 1960 for civic reception to Queen Elizabeth II in Dhaka

park central road (east-west)

Park info billboad

curve inthe right place is pleasing to eyes- (north-south bend away from lake)

Ramna park botomul famed for 1st baishakh - south of lake

Ramna Park: The history of Ramna starts about 1610 AD during Mughal rule, when the city of Dhaka was founded by Subehdar Islam Khan under Emperor Jahangir. At that time two beautiful residential areas were developed in the northern suburb of Dhaka city. New residential houses, gardens, mosques, tombs and temples were built in this area during that period. After the fall of the Mughal rule, Ramna gradually lost much of its glory. There were very few references of Ramna in official documents of the East India Company. Ramna was then a barren area with bushes, abandoned or dilapidated buildings, tombs and old temples.

Ramna area began to regain its glory since 1825, when Mr. Dowes, a British collector of Dhaka initiated a series of steps for development of the city. Engaging convicts, he cleared up the bushes and demolished most tombs and monuments except the Ramna Kali Mandir. The old mosque and tomb that now stand by the western side of old High Court building were spared. The renovated area was given the name of 'Ramna Green' and was fenced by a boundary for using it as a race course. In 1908 he began the work of a garden that took 20 years to take a shape.

The Nawabs of Dhaka developed the racecourse area as a beautiful garden and named a part of it as Shahbagh, the royal garden. The Nawabs also set up a zoo at Ramna. In 1851, the European civil servants established the Dhaka Club on the northern corner of the racecourse and after the Partition a good number of beautiful residential houses were built at Minto road area for the High Court judges and top bureaucrats.

After creation of Pakistan in 1947, Ramna area continued to occupy an important place in the history of Dhaka city. A new road from Shahbagh to the Eden Building was constructed and the eastern side of the road was developed as the Ramna Park. The miniature zoo with a few animals and different kinds of birds were still there at the northeastern side of the present Supreme Court building. The zoo was later shifted to its present location at Mirpur.

Ramna Park was officially inaugurated in 1949 with an area of 88.50 acres of land with 71 species of plants. The large open spaces on the southwest facing the lake were used for holding National Fairs and Exhibitions. Famed magician P.C. Sorcar (senior) staged his performance here. In 1960, Queen Elizabeth II was accorded a rousing civic reception at the Ramna park with display of local fireworks. A raised concrete platform was built for the Queen, the remnants of which can still be seen in the park close to the lake where amateur actors often participate in rehearsals.

The present shape of Ramna Park was drawn up in 1952 by the then C & B Dept (now PWD) and the lake was excavated and extended. Narrow pathways were built by phases. To water the rare variety of saplings, deep tube well and a bud-shape water tower were built on the northern side. The park now covers an area of 68.50 acres of which the lake takes 8.76 acres. Ramna Park now boasts with 71 species of flowering plant, 36 species fruit bearing plant, 33 species medicinal plant and 41 species of forestry and 11 other species. Apart from these, Nageswarchapa, Swarnachapa, Camphor, Rita, Naglingam, Arjun, Mohua, Kusum, Telsu and Ashok etc. trees adorn the park. Walkways inside park have been widened and five new gates built for entry from different sides. The Park has lot of beautiful sheds and kiosks to relax with toilet facilities.

It is unfortunate that such a beautiful spot in the heart of city is not visited by many except the officials and elites of Bailey and Minto road who live closeby. One reason might be the floating sex traders and their cohorts in the park. The park and its gardens are maintained by the office Arboriculture Dept. PWD.

(Ref: Banglapedia, PWD)

Eid-gah of Mughal times at Dhanmondi, Dhaka

Pics above taken on 16 jan 2007

pic source: New Age

Pic source: Daily Star

Historical Eidgah (Dhaka) at Sat Masjid Road, Dhanmondi was constructed by Mir Abul Qasim, Dewan by the order of Prince Shah Shuja, Mughal viceroy of Bengal, second son of Emperor Shahjahan. A Persian inscription records the date of its erection in 1640 AD (1050 AH). The Eidgah for Eid congregation was a platform measuring 148’ x 137’ in size raised from the surrounding land by 4-6 feet. During Mughal period, a river branch flowed beside the Eidgah connected the river near Saat Masjid.

The Eidgah (open field for Eid prayer) consists of a free standing wall on the west, measuring 137 feet 15 feet high, containing a semi-octagonal multi-cusped central Mihrab (prayer-niche) flanked on either side by panels set within frame. The whole wall surface is plastered with elegant decoration in low relief.

This beautiful structure typical of the Mughal architecture was in partial ruins for lack of maintenance after Mughal’s Bengal capital was shifted from Dhaka to Murshidabad and this portion of the Indian subcontinent was captured by the British.

This oldest Mughal monument in Dhanmondi, Dhaka, still draws a large number of visitors because of its architectural beauty. The Mughal Subehdars and Diwans living in this land used to come to the Eidgah for Eid prayers twice a year. People still gather at the place in congregation for prayers on Eid day.

The Eidgah with its red coloured high earthen platform and the elegant masonry wall on west was a prominent landmark in west Dhanmondi area and could be visible from a great distance till early 50’s (Dhanmondi residential area in its early stage). Since then, structures mushrooming around it have kept the old Mughal structure out of visibility. Residences, several Govt offices, godowns, a marriage registrar office, a youth club, few tea stalls, madrasah and a dormitory for the students around have completely overshadowed the Eidgah.

Winter vegetables in the market - sprayed with toxic?

Dressing date palm tree for collection of juice


Crop producers fetch one fifth of the price sold in the city

Boats to wholesale market

Plentyful of supply

Markets here and there

Malibagh kutcha market

Fruit vendors on street

Gafargaon variety of brinjal/eggplant

Too young to sit in the market


Hatirpul kitchen market shops, Dhaka (photo taken on 14 Jan 07)

Most vegetables in Bangladesh grow in winter season. Supply in this season is good in terms of both variety and price. The fertile alluvial plains are ideal for cultivation and growth of vegetable and fruits, and improvement of technology has led to the increase in production. Despite recent political unrest and blockade, supply of vegetables in market was plenty. Health conscious people take more interest to replace meats in their diets with vegetables.

It is disappointing that vegetable growers, handlers and wholesellers at different stages in the distribution chain are resorting to large-scale use of pesticides to preserve vegetables which is detrimental to health. Indiscriminate use of toxic chemicals to grow and ripen fruits and vegetables make them appear fresher or even last longer. Farmers are known to use toxic pesticides containing Organo Chlorinate, Mercury, Lead, Organo Phosphate and numerous other hazardous poisonous chemicals to ensure maximum production all year long. Calcium Carbide to help the bananas ripen faster and get a nice yellow colour, which is hazardous for human, contain arsenic and phosphorous synthetic colours, dyes and other chemicals used in the adulteration process.

According to newspapers, besides using locally manufactured pesticides, farmers also tend to use banned and highly poisonous Indian pesticides for its cheaper price. The most popular Indian pesticides are Thiodin, Hildon, Ostad and these are all of Hu-1 grade that don’t need frequent spraying to do wonders.

The end users pay high price for such vegetables and fruits in the market although very little reach the hands of growers due to extortion of middleman and fariahs at different levels.

Shankhari Bazar - Dhaka

Elevation of the building facade (pic credit - dhaka smritir sahar)



Vulnerable buildings demolished (photo credit - daily star)

View of Shankhar Bazar lane

A Hindu temple (Mandir) in the lane

Bangles from Conch Shell (Shankha)

Foreign visitors in the shop (photo credit - New Age)

Shankhari Bazar: Dhaka was once renowned for the art of making bangles and other kinds of ornamental adornments from conch shells. Originally centered in Shankari Bazar in the Old Town, the area had been home to these artisans for centuries.

James Wise (1883) had written most about the Shankharis (shell artisans) and recorded that of the total 11,453 artisans in Bengal, 835 used to live in old Dhaka alone. Legend goes that these group of craftsman were brought to Bikrampur south of Dhaka district long time ago by a local ruler Ballal Sen. Later, the Mughals brought them to Dhaka city and gave them tax free land to settle.

A total of six different professionals are needed to make each Shankha, starting with the designing, sketching, cutting, carving, polishing and the like. Conch shells were imported from Sri Lanka and later from Tamilnadu in India. It is unique among Bengali married Hindu women to wear a pair of Shankha bangles to show marital culture negating widowhood; 'Shankha' and 'Sindur' (vermilon) on forehead is a part of Hindu religious custom in Bengal.

'Shankharis' due to restriction of land space, built their houses without side windows on narrow slices of plot 10-12 feet wide and 20-30 feet in length with a front facade of 3-5 feet in width. A small front door gives access to the house and a slim long corridor passes deep inside that lead to the stairs to climb to upper floors (2-4 floors). Every house has a tiny central courtyard open to sky for ventilation and lighting.

Shankharis used heavy arc-shaped manually operated steel saw with handle at both ends, it cuts both ways to slice conch shell (Shankha) placed between the thighs held in a clamp . The awesome huge saw has now been abandoned and replaced by electric saws. One such saw, an important artifact in the conch shell industry of Dhaka has now been kept in the office of 'Shankhari Association' for display to the visitors. The phrase “Shankher Karat” (conch saw) has a negative connotation in Bengali literature.

Hindu women, who are not well off, wear cheap white plastic bangles, which look like Shankhas. The Shankhari artisans say that they are living from hand to mouth. They have lately been switching to other professions. Of the original 142 Shankha shops of the lane, only 15 remains today.

Many temples stand on the narrow streets of Shankhari Bazar. Over the years it has become the most popular centre for Hindu religious festivities. Being one of the most densely populated areas in the world, Shankhari Bazar also has the largest concentration of the Hindus in Dhaka. There are about 10,000 people living in Shankhari Bazar within an area of 4.6 acres of land.

The narrow slender buildings built about 200 years ago, are too old and dilapidated to live in. A number of these structures collapsed in 2004 killing 19 lives. Shankhari Bazar’s centuries old buildings have an architectural value that outstrips their utility as places of residence. The place and way of life of the Shankharis is now a tourist attraction.

Lalbagh area and Fort incident

Old dilapidated mansions of Lalbagh


Lalbagian rooftop gathering

Atiskhana lane

Lalbagh road

Killar mor - south west corner of Fort

Tomb (majar)

Nawabganj field

Historical Khan Mohammad Mridha Mosque

Unknown grave in the historical Mridha mosque

Bishnu Charan house on Lalbagh Road


Lalbagh Hindu cremation ghat in Kamrangir char


Rahmatullah High School - the first Urdu based school after partition

Inside view of Lalbagh Fort - Paribibi's tomb in the foreground

Fort north east gate

Date palm juice seller

Kacchi biriani and Tehari deck in local restaurant

Mechanical shop

Katabon pet animal market

Katabon flower shop

Katabon traffic

Lalbagh Area: The old city of Dhaka was small centering round Babubazar area, but on becoming the capital of the Mughal Subah the city was extended along the bank of the Buriganga river. The capital requirements led to expansion of the city. Localities grew in different locations in light of the professional occupation of people. The names, which persist even today, suggest how the city grew and developed. Urdu Road suggests the camp of soldiers, Bakhshibazar, Mughaltoli, Hazaribagh, Peelkhana, Amligola, Atishkhana, Mahouttoli, Bongsal, Kayettoli, Tantibazar, Sankharibazar, Ganaktoli all signify that they had been occupied and inhabited by Mughal civil and military officials and their retinue at one time or another.

In Lalbagh, the construction of the only fort in Dhaka, the Lalbagh or Aurangabad fort was undertaken in 1678-79. It was an incomplete fort as Subehdar Shaista Khan did not continue the work once his daughter Paribibi died. The Mughals developed the area adjunct to it. Chandnighat on the river Buriganga, half km east of Fort, was developed as a landing station and for review of imperial war-boats. Chawk, the market place and Katra (caravan sarai) were built further east of it. Lalbagh Shahi Mosque the largest Mosque in Bangladesh was built few yards away from the south east corner of the Fort. Amirgola (Amligola) and Nawabganj, west of the Fort was the residential area for the officers and nobles attached to the Fort. Atiskhana area, as the name suggests, a place for storing ammunition and explosives, was located half km north west of the Fort and Peelkhana, further west, was the stable for Elephants. Azimpur area north of the Fort was also a residential place for nobles.

The decline of Mughal power and rise of the East India Company in the 18th century led to the waning of the importance of Dhaka and its population began to dwindle sharply. Lalbagh Fort and its sorroundings soon became forlorn and desolate. The city attracted British, Dutch, Portuguese and Armenians traders. They established factories at Tejgaon and Narinda area. Amirgola (Amligola), Hazaribagh and Posta in Lalbagh transformed into places for small local industries for making comb and buttons from Buffalo horns and tanneries etc. Hindu traders gradually settled in there. They were Poddars and Baniks. It is said the Bank of a famous banker 'Jagat Seth' was located close to 'Killar Mor' (south west corner of Fort) beside an open field and temple.

In 19th century, the houses of Dhaka were mostly thatched huts erected in a line upon the edges of narrow winding streets and alleys. Dhaka land was not level, houses were clustered on the high strips of land lying between creeks and canal branches.

In 1844, the British brought the convicts at Lalbagh Fort for its maintenance and in 1853 the Army was moved in from Paltan to stay. During Sepoy mutiny of 1857 the local troops revolted which was brutally crushed. Many sepoys were killed, many were arrested and executed at Bahadur Shah Park (Victoria Park). Meanwhile, valuables of the Fort, stones and costly sandalwood items of Paribibi’s tomb were looted. The Fort thereafter was used as a police barrack till the partition of India 1947.

After partition, another tragic event took place in Lalbagh Fort in 1948, when the police stationed there refused to take orders or lay down arms due to long non-payment of salaries and allowances. When negotiations failed, army was called in to crush rebellion. EP Rifles from Peelkhana surrounded the fort from all sides in the morning and army regiment moved in the Fort to disarm them. Thousands of people from near and far thronged the Fort area to witness the scene. Rooftop space of buildings and trees around the Fort were filled up and the open roads on north and south were packed with enthusiatic crowd. Gun battle took place in the afternoon and lasted for half an hour. Police surrendered taking heavy casualties, and Paribibi's tomb was splattered with blood. The crowd ran helter-skelter for their lives and many got injured in stampede and freefall from treetop. Years later, Police line from Lalbagh Fort was moved out to Mill-barracks and Rajarbagh.

Lalbagh Fort now is under the Archeological Department of Bangladesh.

Also see Some old buildings and mosques in Lalbagh, Dhaka.

Dhaka - making and breaking

Purbachal - new township area

Land grabbers taking away sand

Making of flood protection bund

Sand collection at Balu river

Brick field makes scar on the ground

Suhrawardy’s ancestral home in Kolkata (Calcutta) demolished

pic credit: Naya Diganta

40 Theatre Road, the legendary house, ancestral home of Huseyn Shaheed Suhrawardy in the posh area of Kolkata (Calcutta), and witness to many political events of the independence movement of India and partition of Pakistan during his Premiership of Bengal is being demolished. The house was listed as a ‘heritage building’ of India in West Bengal, but its custody was taken over by a non-Bengali businessman Mr. Shyamsundar Dhanuka in 2000 from the Kolkata City Corporation, after removing the name from the heritage list for construction of a shopping complex. Demolition work started 20 days ago, every night, slowly under cover of darkness and taking advantage of high perimeter wall to hide from public eyes. With its demolition, a monument of Indian political history will be buried.

'Phuchka' stalls in Dhaka

So far my memory goes, ‘Phuchka’ and ‘Chatpati’ now popular items as snacks for young peoples were rarely seen in Dhaka before partition of 1947. These items at that time were popular in the streets and parks in Kolkata (Calcutta) India along with ghugni, alu-kabli, chop, alur-dam, chanachur, nakuldana and kulfi. Dhaka didn't have appetite for that sort of snacks/food items.

Fuchka and chatpati were not local food items of Bengal, it travelled along with the influx of non-Bengali workers and business community in Kolkata from western Indian states in the later part of 19th century and finally to Dhaka.

The name ‘Phuchka' in Bengal was probably derived from the “fooch” sound that the crispy fried ball makes when pressed by thumb to make cavity for filling potato stuff and ‘chutney’ water. Phuchka is called ‘panipuri’ or ‘golgappa’ in some regions of India. Every regions have their own variations of ‘masala’ (spices) ingredients and preparations. But the basic ingredients are more or less same everywhere i.e, wheat flour and samolina dough deep fried in oil to make small, round, puffed, hard balls. Stuffing ingredients are spicy mashed potatoes and tamarind / chutney water with optional addition of egg, peas and ‘chana’ (chick peas).

Dhaka city during Partition was nearly 3 km wide strip of land south of old railway line (Sonargaon road) stretching from Hajaribagh to Narinda-Sutrapur along the bank of Buriganga River.

Phuchka and chatpati made its mark in Dhaka after the influx of peoples coming from West Bengal and north western Indian states after partiton '47 . Dhaka before partition was a sleepy district town with a university at Ramna. There were hardly any industrial unit except in Narinda and Shyampur. City peoples were highly conservative and obeyed the dictum of muhalla sardars on social issues. Women barely seen outside or in the market places without ‘parda’. Rickshaw pullers wouldn't carry female passenger without Burqa or ricksaw back-seat space fully covered with cloth, horse carriage (thika gari) with female passenger would pull down shutters to hide female faces.

Dhaka at that time didn’t have good quality eating-houses or restaurants where families could go. Among the top few, Ritz/Rex near Britainia cinema hall in Ramna was the best but it remained exclusively for the whites and wealthy Nawabs or Zamindars. The restaurant Alhamra at Chawkbazar was on the north west corner near urdu road, it's specialities were ‘morog mossallam’ (chicken curry), ‘glassy’ and ‘lassi’. Paramount and OK restaurant located near Mukul cinema / Collectorate were good for semi european type of cuisine and served soup, butter toast, chop, cutlet and puddings, sometimes liquors to the licensed. It had cabin boxes for VIPs or family. Adjacent Victoria park (renamed Bahadur Shah park) and Sadarghat areas had most of the commercial offices and well known for marketing and promenade. The cimema halls around- Mukul, Rupmahal at Sadarghat, Maya (renamed Manoshi later Nishat) at Wise ghat and Lion further west ran packed house with Hindi, occassional Bengali and Hollywood films. For quality sweets, people went to 'Kalachand Gandhabanik' and 'Sitaram Bhandar' near Babupura outpost- Sankhari-bazar and 'Maranchand' in Rathkhola Nawabpur. Their preparation of ‘chanar amreeti’, ‘nikhudi’ and ‘praanhara’ were people's favourites. Maranchand was also good for milk items and Curd (misti doi).

Quality of bread and cakes in 1947 was not upto mark, pastry unknown. Zamindars and Nawabs had their own houses for bakeries and master chefs, they were never seen going to shops for cooked food. On important occasions, food items and chefs were brought by them from Kolkata (India) or West Pakistan after partition. Bottled soft drinks were not in existence except soda water, lemonade and concentrated ‘vimto’ (dark chocolate colour) bottle. Among bakeries, brown bread, bakharkhani, nankhatai, and tandoori were local's delight. In tea stalls, milk tea had thick layers of floating ‘malai’ (cream) and plenty of sugar. Nehari, tandoor rooti, Matha (whey), Paat-khir were available everywhere in the streets of old Dhaka. I don't remember about popularity of Kachchi biriani at that time but most civic functions served Morog polao which is Dhaka's special.

By 1954, Azimpur, Motijheel colony, New market, Gulistan, Jinnah Avenue (now BangaBandhu Ave) and Stadium areas grew up in phases in Dhaka. Large Chevrolet cars began to appear in the narrow streets in greater number to add modernity. Apart from Shahbagh hotel, posh restaurants established along Jinnah Ave (now BB Ave) and Gulistan area with variety of culinary. Chow Chin Chow and Sakura restaurant near Shahbagh served so called chinese and japanese food that became popular. Rex was famous for paratha and shik kabab at 12 annas only. Chicken tikka, shik kabab and large Bombai ‘jilabi’ were introduced by the imported ‘karigors’ from W Pakistan in 'Darul Kabab' near Banglamotor and 'Kampala' in Elephant road near aeroplane mosque by late '50's. Phuchka and chatpati stalls also began to grow near Gulistan, Stadium and New market areas. National fairs and exibition were held in Ramna park area since early '50s. Stalls from Peshwar introduced king size 'parathas' sold by weight, 'chapli kabab' and 'halwas'. At the fair 'Phuchka' and chatpati stalls also opened up.

Today Phuchka and chatpati are popular items among youths. With the arrival of burgers and pizza culture, Phuchka pushcarts are being replaced by glittering road side stalls, cafes in malls and 'kiosks' in lakes. But to me, such a sanitized experience will never measure up to the fun of standing next to a Phuchka-Chatpati cart serving half-a-dozen customers around him with his fast moving hands.

Dhaka - coldwave January 2007

Narayanganj bypass in morning fog

Dhaka city at 9:00 am

perilous journey thru 'blockade' in cold


street buying under compulsion



better adjustment

those without roof defy cold



life goes on


nothing more comfortable than a hot cup tea

long queue of babies in hospital

Bangladesh is reeling under severe cold wave before 'Mohajote blockade' to start from Jan 07, 2007

Eid-ul-Azha 2007

Nayabazar cattle market

Locomotive at Tongi

Aminbazar to Gabtali

Pose for camera

Black bengal goat - renowned for soft leather

Last supper...


Eid-ul-Azha congregation at Baitul Mukarram

Raw materials going for processing

Waste moving to dumps

Diplomats greet national leaders

Kuakata beach scene on eid day

Eid holidayers rush in Rangamati

Eid rally - Dhaka

Human Cargo

River ghat dumping ground, as cargo carried by head load

Human train of cargo - silted river keeps ferry away from the jetty

Pulling heavy net out of the sea

Police now takes charge of Mobarak Hossain on his return from Guantanamo prison last month serving 3 and half year's of captivity

Foggy days at Dhaka in 2006

Farmgate, Dec 25, 2006

Manik Miah Avenue

Part of Dhaka city

No light in rising sun

River outside Dhaka

Parliament looks romantic in dense fog

On a foggy morning

Buriganga River - massive river pollution

Buriganga first bridge at Postogola built in 1989 (Bangla-China friendship bridge)

River at Ahsan Manzil Museum

River view near Pagla

River at Naval coast guard station


Ferry boat and tanker

Launches at Sadarghat

River at Badamtali ghat


Bathing ghat

River at Showari ghat

Rotting fish and organic materials cause massive pollution

Factory waste from Keraniganj and chemical waste of Hazaribagh tanneries

River channel narrowed by illegal land grabbers (pic south of first bridge)

Free for all on the western end at Amin Bazar

In the distant past, a course of the Ganges river used to reach the Bay of Bengal through the Dhaleshwari river. This course gradually shifted and ultimately lost its link with the main channel of the Ganges and was renamed as the Buriganga. Hundreds of years ago, the banks of the Buriganga were a prime location for trade when the Mughals made Dhaka their capital in 1610. It was the main waterway for trading. It is said that the water levels during high and low tides in this river astonished the Mughals.

40-50 years ago, a cruise on the historic Buriganga River in the capital used to be a must for visiting dignitaries. It was once the main source of drinking water for Dhaka residents, and the river is still crystal clear an hour upstream from the capital. But, these days they are confronted with foul smells and rotting fish caused by massive pollution. This stench is unbelievable. According to the Environment Department, up to 40,000 tons of tannery waste flows into the river daily, along with sewage from Dhaka, a city of more than 10 million.

Illegal structures have sprung up along its banks, narrowing the river and adding to the dirt, while ferries spill oil into its waters. It is now a dying river and the situation will get worse unless steps are taken urgently to reverse the trend.