Dhakai Bakarkhani and the legend:

Bakarkhani utsob by 'Amra Dhakabasi'

Dhakai Bakarkhani, the traditional food/snack of the people of old Dhaka was so famous for its quality and taste that there was great demand of it in the Royal court of the Mughal in Delhi.

Muslims of Turkic and Afghan origin were first to arrive in India and brought with them ‘tandoor’ and ‘naan’ to the local culinary. Mughal’s arrival in 16th century introduced ‘shirmal’ a kind of soft bread. Hekim Habibur Rahman in his book “Dhaka pachash barash pahley” published in the 1940’s gives a detail account of the variety of original food items of Dhaka and its preparation. He said, the unique feature of Dhaka was that though rice is the staple food, the varieties of 'roti' (bread) available were simply amazing and every roti has a history and ancestry of its own. Shirmal has basic ingredients of flour and semolina (suji), persian background, it was soft and thick, whereas, Bakarkhani made of white flour and ‘mawa/khoia’ is firm, crisp and melts in the mouth, it is also known as ‘sukha roti’.

In the past, the bakarkhaniwalas (bread-makers) used to lit up tandoor after midnight to bring out product by morning. Bakarkhani dough of white flour and mawa thoroughly mixed and kneaded for hours before stretching thin by hand over the entire span of wooden board. Then after spreading ghee (clarified butter) over it, flour is strewn on. It was folded and the process repeated several times. After sizeable numbers of such small dough are ready, they are made into roti on the board and sesame (teel) seeds are spread on it. The rotis are then put inside the tandoor. During the process of baking, pure milk is sprinkled on them twice. This is the story of making pure bakarkhanis. But now in place of ghee and milk, molasses solution is added so that the bread turns reddish.’

Cheese bakarkhani was another delicacy. In every fold, instead of ghee and flour ‘mohanbhog’ mishti or semolina (suji) halwa was used. These breads known as ‘bhigaroti or bhijaroti’ are sent on ‘dalas’ (high rim trays) dipped in creamy milk with almond and raisins from the house of the bride to the groom as part of a traditional matrimonial ritual. Soon other men joined in this trade, bidding goodbye to quality and hygiene of the food and this business came to an end.

Nazir Hossain, a local of Dhaka writes an interesting story in his book “Kingbadantir Dhaka” about naming of 'Bakarkhani'. The story goes in 1700A.D. when Murshid Quli Khan came to eastern Bengal after obtaining the title ‘Dewan’ (chief officer), he brought along with him Aga Bakar Khan as a small boy. Aga Bakar grew up as a great warrior and during the reign of Nawab Shiraj-ud-Doula held a crucial role in the then Bengal politics. Aga Bakar was appointed the commander of military forces in the Chittagong district and his amour was a 'nartaki' (dancer) of Arambag called ‘Khani Begum’. However, Ujir-e-ala (minister) Jahandar Khan’s wicked son Kotwal Jainul Khan also had an eye for Khani Begum. One day jainul Khan attempted to take away Khani Begum by force. Learning this Aga Bakar went hastily for her rescue. There was a fight and Jainul Khan fled. A rumour spread that after assassinating Jainul, Aga Bakar had hidden his dead body. Both Khani Begum and Aga Bakar were arrested and taken to Murshid Quli’s court. As neutral judge Murshid Quli Khan gave the death sentence to Aga Bakar and put in the cage of a tiger. He fought valiantly with the animal for his life and eventually succeeded in killing it and escape. On the other hand, Jainul abducted Khani and fled to the forests of South-East Bengal. In search of Khani Begum, Aga Bakar Khan headed towards ‘Chandradip’ accompanied by his commander Kala Gazi. When Jainul saw that he had no hope for survival he plunged his sword into Khani Begum's chest and Aga Bakar reached the spot only to find his beloved dying. After the death of Khani Begum, Aga Bakar almost lost his mind. He stayed in Chandradip which he eventually took under his possession besides Selimabad and Buzurg Umidpur (Bakarganj named after Baker presently in Barisal). On Murshid Quli Khan’s order, Aga Bakar had to wed to a respectable Shia family who gave birth to two sons Aga Sadek and Mirza Mehdi. Aga Baker was subsequently killed in a battle by his conspirators; his mutilated body was buried in old Dhaka in the field Aga Sadeq Maidan. Though Aga Bakar got married, he never forgot Khani Begum, and this he proved by naming the specially prepared bread 'bakar-khani' roti thus making his love a part of legend.

Iftari in Chawkbazar

Historical Chawkbazar Masjid (Badshahi Masjid)

extending part of shop- pushing tables in the middle of street blocking vehicular traffic

preparation in progress

'Jilapi' making

Dates

piyaju-beguni, chola-ghugni

suti/sutli kabab- Chawkbazar's speciality

(pic of friday in the new nation)

Bakarkhani

khaja

Halim in the pot

lemon, cucuber,pudina

fruits

anxious queue- waiting to see near and dear ones closed in the Dhaka Central Jail, Chawkbazar

A trip to the narrow alleys and thick crowds of Chawkbazar in the heart of old Dhaka to taste the traditional Dhakai Iftari offering an wide range of option was always an enjoyment. Chawkbazar usually remained clogged with the people fond of delicious iftari every year, but, this year vendors are unhappy with the downward trend of customers rush. They expressed price-hike of the items is the main reason and dropped many items of mutton and chicken.

Musa Khan Mosque, Dhaka

Rear view - south west end

Rear view

Central dome - inside

Mihrab

View inside - north end


View from south east

Signboard of the mosque

Grave of Musa Khan - north east of mosque

Building of Shahidullah Hall, Dhaka University

Placid water of the famous pond between Shahidullah Hall and Fazlul Huq Hall

Musa Khan, ruler of Bhati (East Bengal Delta), was the son and successor of Isa Khan Masnad-i-Ala, a powerful ruler of Bhati, descendant of an Afghan chieftain settled in Bengal in the reign of Nusrat Shah and carved out an independent principality in the Bhati region. He inherited a vast territory in 1599 , comprising a half of greater Dhaka and Comilla districts, almost the whole of greater Mymensingh district, and perhaps some portions of the greater districts of Rangpur, Bogra and Pabna. He possessed a formidable fleet of war-boats, and besides his capital Sonargaon, he had fortified posts at Khizrpur, Katrabo, Kadam Rasul, Sreepur and Vikramapur.

Musa Khan, with the assistance of other Bhuiyans (region lords), fought against the Mughal imperial forces for a decade to maintain his supremacy over East Bengal. But after defeats and the fall of his strongholds including Sonargaon (1611) he had to surrender at long last. He was taken to the vice-royal court at Jahangirnagar, subsequently having been treated kindly by Ibrahim Khan Fath-e-Jang (1617-1624) he served the viceroy faithfully and distinguished himself in the Mughal conquest of ‘Tippera’ and suppression of revolt in ‘Kamrupa’. Musa Khan died in Dhaka in 1623. He lies buried in the Bagh-i-Musa Khan, close to the Musa Khan Mosque situated within the Shahidullah Hall Compound of Dhaka University. (Ref: banglapedia).

The Mosque built on raised platform depicts ‘Shaistakhani style’ of architecture named after the noted Mughal General Shaista Khan who later became Subehdar of Bengal. It is believed that Munawar Khan, grandson of Musa Khan, built this mosque.

There is a signboard in the Mosque compound about this historical landmark. The mosque presently is in pretty deplorable shape and offers a shabby appearance. It needs renovation and restoration to elevate the image to match the elegant structures of Shahidullah Hall and Curzon Hall situated close to it in the heart of the city once known as Bagh-e-Badshahi, now Ramna, the persian name given by the Mughals.

Dhaka- on Motorbike

Dhaka scenes: On the eve of Ramadan

Near Crescent lake

English grammar school in Dhanmondi

Flower stall near Shahbagh

Buriganga river

Institution at road 27 (old) Dhanmondi R/A

Bank office, Gulshan

Gulshan 2

Westin hotel, Gulshan 2


Bangladesh Secretariat Bldg.

Shantinagar

Where Japan Embassy set its office in the '50's, Shantinagar

Nazrul Islam avenue

View, north from Dhaka City Corporation


Waiting for the green light to cross

Kanthal Champa flower on sale

Jigatola footpath

BDR north gate - opened fair-priced shops in city to stabilize price of essentials

Crow's meet


Posing for a documentary in Dhanmondi

Street scene in busy places

Last minute buy for 'Ramadan' after sighting of moon

Boy sells lozenges at road intersection

cooling off in Dhanmondi lake

Tejgaon industrial area road - looks vacant

Qassabtuly Mosque - most ornate mosque of Dhaka !

West view of Mosque

Entry from north


Design, interior

Ornate outer wall

Outer wall to main prayer room

Room, interior - north side

Space between the mihrab


Central mihrab

View from outside



Muhalla Panchayet hall and club

Entry road to Panchayet hall

Side lane of the Mosque

Qassabtuly Mosque, better known as ‘Koshaituli’ Mosque located in the area once where the ‘Kashais’ (butchers) lived, stands graciously in the narrow lane of old Dhaka amid the dense brick and concrete jungles. The inscriptions on the Mosque express the name as "Qassabtuly Jam-e Masjid (Hijri 1338)” now referred as Koshaituli Mosque. It is said the inhabitants of this locality were followers of Maulana Keramat Ali and the females excelled in embroidery works exported to Central Asia and Europe. The old Muhalla Panchayet room and a club that exist, equally ornate, next to the mosque were built by local dignitary Qamaruddin Sardar (Ref: Kingbadantir Dhaka by Nazir Hossain).

This exquisitely beautiful Mosque, possibly the most ornate decorated by ‘Chini-tikri’ (small chips of coloured Chinaware-plate, jar and cup etc.), has flower-vases, flower branches, crescent, star, and Arabic calligraphic writing on walls and domes of the mosque. One other such decorative mosque, the ‘Tara Mosque", is located close to it in Armanitola. These two Mosques still hold their heads high with their dazzling beauty and present the evidence of Islam dominance in this country.

Also see, Dhaka Mosques;

Street scene: Sept 2007

Historical Dhakeswari Temple (pre Mughal era) renovated for 'Janmashtami' celebration on 04 Sep, 2007

Dhakeswari Temple extension

Temple in Wari

Temple at Hatkhola road

'Joikali Mandir' near Thataribazar

Old mansion in Farashganj

Ruplal house, Farashganj

A monument at intersection, near Armanitola church


Waiting to catch 'Ramadan' customers

Nawabpur Road

Extn. judge's court near Bahadur Shah (old Victoria) park

Market constructed by City Corporation near old Fulbaria Railway Station

Hackney carriage (variant of old 'Thika Gari') introduced in Gulistan-Sadarghat route


'Ashatha' (pepul) tree trunk near Shahbagh flower shops

Mosque inside ZH Sikder Women's Medical College complex, Rayerbazar

Old shrine (makkusha mazar) at Nazimuddin Road, near Dhaka Central Jail east wall

Bumpers for new cars

No space for the geese

Dhanmondi - serene

Mirpur - section 10 east

Gulshan central

Ramna

Kartalab Khan Mosque, Begumbazar and the Builder

Begumbazar road - towards Dhaka central jail gate

North view of Kartalab Khan mosque - from Begumbazar road

East view of mosque

Entry of the mosque with flight of stairs

Decoration on east side

Boy standing in the border line between old and new

Central entrance of old part

Delicate arch work over entrances

Underside of central dome - partial view

Central of the 5 mihrabs

View of dome from south east roof top

Kiosks with copulas, and finally crowned with lotus and kalasa finial

View from west

Kartalab Khan Mosque/ Begumbazar Mosque, Dhaka:
The design of the mosque is quite fascinating. The mosque, with a do-chala annex on the northern side built on high vaulted terrace, is entered from the east through five arched doorways. There was a stepped well to the north east of the platform to provide water for ablutions. In course of time the well became filled up with filth and later shops were built on it. The interior of the original mosque, forming a large elongated hall (25.60m by 5.18m), is divided into five bays by four transverse arches of plain four-centred design. The central bay is square and bigger than a couple of smaller rectangular ones on either side. Underneath the platform are a series of rectangular rooms that are let out to shopkeepers. The approach to the mosque is on the east of the platform by a flight of steps. The western wall is internally recessed with five semi-octagonal mihrabs. A kitchen market was built, endowed to meet the expenses of the mosque. In 1777, the control of the market was taken over by Lovely Begum daughter of the then Naib-e-nazim Sharfaraz Khan. The name of the locality ‘Begumbazar’ originate from her name. The mosque underwent several phases of reconstruction in the past and now having further renovation work. The madrassa has been shifted from the mosque.

Kartalab Khan alias Murshid Quli Khan - Subehdar of Bengal in 1717:

Very little is known about his family and parenthood. Haji Shafi of Ispahan brought him up in Iran and gave him useful education. After Haji Shafi's death, he entered the Mughal service in India as diwan and faujdar of Golkonda. When Mughal emperor Aurangzeb was looking for an honest and efficient diwan for Bengal, his choice fell on this young man. He was transferred to Bengal in 1701 as diwan and was honoured with the title of ‘Kartalab Khan’.

He was honest and faithful to the emperor, proved to be very efficient in matters of revenue and financial administration. But while safeguarding imperial interests, he came into conflict with Azim-us-Shan, the nazim and grandson of the emperor. He was about to lose his life, but faced the problem with fortitude and courage. The emperor intervened with warning to his grandson and allowed Kartalab Khan to shift his office to Makhsudabad on the Ganges in 1702. In 1703, Kartalab Khan visited the emperor in the Deccan where he got the title of ‘Murshid Quli Khan’ and an elevation in rank. The emperor also allowed him to rename Makhsudabad as Murshidabad after his new title.

After Aurangzeb's death in 1707, the Mughal Empire was in turmoil and faced dismemberment. Bengal was, at that time, being governed by absentee governors through their deputies. Murshid Quli Khan was recalled from Deccan in 1710 and became the deputy subehdar, on behalf of the absentee son of Farrukh Siyar, and then, after his death, of the absentee subehdar. But he continued to stay at Murshidabad. Being the highest officer present in the station, the control of affairs in the province fell in his hands. He was raised to the post of nazim of Bengal in 1716. He was loaded with titles. He secured the imperial title of "Motamul-ul-Mulk, Alauddowla Jaffer Khan, Noseri Nasir Jang (Guardian of the country, promoter of the State, Helper in War, the Defender). He transferred the capital of the province from Dhaka to Murshidabad in 1717 and reigned over Bengal, Bihar and Orissa.

He was true to his salt and did not yield to pressure, he didn't allow the East India Company to purchase more villages around Calcutta even after the company's receipt of the imperial farman. Murshid Quli Khan was also a good builder. Kartalab Khan's Mosque/ Begam Bazar Mosque at Dhaka and the Murshidabad Mosque bear his name. He also opened a mint and introduced the "Zurbe Murshidabad” coin. In private life, he was extremely religious and never deviated from the path of shariat. After a successful tenure of office, he died in Murshidabad on 30 June 1727.